Buying a ukulele is not on the same level as buying a car, but there are some practices one should utilize before making a purchase. In this Internet age, the ability to select from about as wide a range as one could imagine is both a boon and a bane. Given that, here are a few pre-purchasing tips.
1) Determine your skill level. Are you new to playing the ukulele? Are you new to music in general? If you are new to music, then you are not going to want to spend a fortune for an instrument that you may not even be able to play. If you have some musical background, then you can opt for a more expensive model, but again you should not go whole hog on the purchase. Remember, you can always upgrade to a higher quality instrument (hence, more expensive) once you are past the initial playing phases.
2) Gauge your overall interest level. Are you a hobbyist or are you a fanatic? Sometimes the interest starts out as casual, but the tendency to fall in love with this instrument is strong. However, you should weigh exactly how much time you’ll be able to spend playing and practicing. Decide whether you are willing to dedicate a couple of hours a week or a couple of hours a day to this pursuit. Finally, seriously assess if you are the type of person easily frustrated by lack of immediate progress. Even if you are a skilled musician, there will be a learning curve.
3) Go out and actually find a ukulele you can test. Find some good instrument/music shops that carry not only ukuleles, but a variety of them. This includes not only different makes (e.g. Oscar Schmidt, Lanikai, Makala, Martin, Cordoba, etc.), but different types as well (e.g. soprano, concert, tenor, and baritone). Get your hands on one to feel what it is like to play the instrument. Learn to differentiate between the different fit and finishes available. Moreover, discover the different sounds each brand and type can produce. Not all ukes sound or even look the same (wait ’til you see your first pineapple body ukulele).
4) Talk to ukulele players. More important, find a uke group in your area. These people can tell you things about ukuleles that are near impossible to quantify. Interaction with casual hobbyists to serious musicians (professionals) will give you the opportunity to study the instrument from different perspectives. You might also get to handle some ukulele models you’d otherwise miss or only read about. Furthermore, you will already have a base of support and playing partners if you do decide to get a ukulele.
5) Do research on the Internet. Like almost all topics on the found on the Web, there is both good and bad. Spend time reading and researching. This will help with the first three items. You can find the debates between people regarding makes and models, and there are many. There are numerous sites dedicated to ukulele playing, so get out there and dig around. The more time you spend educating yourself about the instrument, the better the decision you can make.
6) Don’t rush. Avoid the temptation of “instant gratification.” It doesn’t matter whether you are going spend $80 or $800 on your instrument; you want to get the best quality instrument for the money you are willing to spend. Hence, any research you do up to the purchase point will aid you in reaching this objective. Take your time and you will be happier over time with your final choice. They say time is money, and it is true in this case as well. Wisely spend your time, and you will wisely spend your money. Above all, you do want to be happy with your final decision, regardless of what you choose.
7) Make a purchase decision and then… wait. Yes, wait. Give it another week or two or three. Review the deciding factors one last time. Be certain you are comfortable with the amount you are willing to pay and any accompanying trade offs. Make certain you understand the make and model of the ukulele to be obtained. Re-read the last two lines of point number 6.
People will hit you will all sorts of arguments regarding this ukulele or that for both make and model. Listen to them. Judge their level of passion and seeming knowledge. Weigh one opinion against another. Some purists will howl than anything other than uke made in Hawai’i is a waste of money. In the same vein, anyone who recommends anything simply because “it’s cute” should be discounted. Eschew extreme positions. When all is said and done, you will be the one who decides and you will have to live with your choice.
In the words of a heavily copyrighted movie by one of the top directors, “Choose wisely.”
(My first ukulele was a Lanikai LU-21C, a concert uke. I love it even after hundreds of hours of playing it. It’s a solid, good sounding, relatively inexpensive beginner uke that holds up well over time.)
Woodshed
May 5th, 2010 8:59 am
Thanks very much for that, Dag. Some very useful pointers.
My question to you, Dag is this. I have written two children’s albums using my ukes and when I went to buy a tenor, the biggest dilemma I had was what kind of strings work better. I have have all sizes but I find that I prefer to have steel string some where in my tenor setup. what is your opinion on this and can you give me some advice on strings in general. I am at the stage where I am contemplating spending a couple of thousand on a good performance uke. Thanks Jay
Dag
September 23rd, 2010 4:34 pm
Jayster… strings are all about how the tone is embodied as it comes out of the f-hole (after bouncing around inside the body). Here are a couple of things to consider first when deciding on strings:
1) What type of wood (or woods or laminate) is used to create the front, sides, and back. Dense woods like mahogany will bounce the sound back in a more true fashion. Softer woods like spruce will “mellow” out the sound. Nato wood tends to add a sharpness to the sound, but one that I kind of like. Laminates can produce uneven results depending on the composite woods used (and I have heard some sweet, sweet laminates). You also need to consider the joinery method used as this can affect the tone. If large nub strips are used to join sides to front and back, that can mute the sound (and tone), or create uneven reverberation. Thus, you have to know the original tone of the uke.
2) Three basic choices: gut, nylon, or steel. It all depends on the effect you wish to achieve. Secondly, sustain is going to be affected by the type of string you use. Steel has the longest sustain with gut coming in third. The tone produced also varies widely, of which you seem well aware. Since you seem to like steel strings, and you can get some great intonation out of steel, here is one aspect to seriously consider:
Steel strings have very little “give” until the snap. They don’t really stretch in the same manner as gut or nylon. It is easier to tune steel strings. Once you get in the range, it takes very little to hit the tune note. However, a string extruded imperfectly will never find true. The worrying aspect of steel strings lies in the fact they can warp the neck, regardless if the neck is reinforced.
Take into account the thickness of the C (3rd) string (if using the standard G-C-E-A tuning). That string can take an amazing amount of tension. Now, combine that tension with the other three strings, and I think you can see where this is heading. There is a lot of force built up between the nut and the saddle. Depending on the design and structure of the neck, it may not be able to take the tension. Caution is by the by-word.
On other item about using steel strings: examine the frets. Make certain they are made of a material than can withstand the use of steel. I think more uke manufacturers have gut or nylagut in mind when they select fret material. If they are brass frets, then the brass will etch and score after a while with steel strings. This can lead to fuzz or other distortions later in the life of the instrument.
I have a Fender Hau’Oli mahogany tenor. Not a very expensive model, but has a very interesting tone. It came with D’Adario strings with a nickel-wound 3rd string. Those strings sounded awful! I switched them out for some Aquila Nylagut strings, and then things got interesting. My tenor tends toward the treble end of tone, and I really like it. However, not every song takes that that sort of tone. I have tried gut strings on it, but the sound was muted… and Fender ukes tend to have a bit of muteness to begin with and the gut strings made it worse.
Since you are more than likely going after a quality instrument, the issue of price is not going to matter much, so comparable quality is the key point. If you go with steel, my instincts advise that you stick with solid extruded steel strings. Avoid “wound” strings. I think the tone quality will be much better with solids. If you go with steel, take a week to properly “extend” the strings (versus stretching them). Tighten them up little by live over the course of a day. Once you hit tune, play the strings until they go out of tune. Then, tune again and let them sit over night. Due this for about 7 days or so, and your strings will be tempered. This will preserve the sound quality in the long term and will help you avoid warping the neck.
If you want a more mellow sound, go with nylagut or gut. I highly recommend Aquila strings. You get excellent quality at a decent price. Aquila gut will run you about $10 – $12 per pack. Aquila Nylagut comes in around $5.00, give or take a dollar depending on source.
I hope this helps
- Dag
Bobb
October 11th, 2010 5:25 pm
Hey – I just bought a new Uke in Japan. It’s called a Hanalei. I know it’s not a great one as it cost 4900円 ($50) but I can’t find much info about them. Not even in the exhaustive list on ukulele brands which seems to include everything from terrible to fantastic. Can you let me know if you heard of them and how you rate them. If I get better I will treat myself to a better one – so whats next?
I love the site by the way.
Bobb
Tinpan Chuck
November 17th, 2010 7:39 am
I recently purchased a Lauren SU14 Soprano Ukulele from a local Music store, and had never until then heard of the brand name. It has geared tuning pegs, and there is an oily smell emanating from the soundhole, but interestingly, I have only had to tune it one time since I bought it.
My decision to buy it, came after I had ordered a Mahalo Uke online, and was told it was on backorder, I had also heard some scare stories about the Mahalo brand, and so, I cancelled the order, and bought the Lauren Uke a day later. I am very happy with it, and I now have a Gig bag on order for it through the music store where I bought the Uke.
Tiy
November 27th, 2010 9:12 am
Hi i am new to the ukelele and would like to buy a solid wood one .within a mid range price up to $450. So far between string types ,sizes and woods i am overwhelmed with all thats available.There are three brands so far that i am interested in but have no experience to know what is a good brand ,tone etc for my money . The pono tenor solid mahogany satin finish , the Kala tenor solid acacia ,and most of all confusion the aNuenue lani or papa ? I did get to play a aNuenue long neck solid koa soprano which sounded nice but the shop had nothing to compare it to.could someone please give me some advice on soprano’s and tenor’s (although i do know the tenor is larger)but thats about all.thankyou for your time …
clint
November 29th, 2010 2:18 am
I would welcome any opinions-from the beginner to the seasoned expert. Upon the recommendation of a musician friend, I’m seriously considering starting my 5 year old daughter with a ukulele. She’s expressed an interest in music and I wanted to start her on an instrument that would not frustrate her into quitting after a week. I thought about a 1/2 size guitar, but the friend said a uke would probably pose less frustrating and more gratifying and rewarding and thus keep her enjoying music.
Given that she’s 5, I don’t want to start with some thousand dollar instrument that’s going to give me palpitations should she start swinging it around. I’m looking at the $50 range, but also want as good a $50 uke as you can get. I know nothing about brands, but did recognize Ibanez and Hohner. However, just because I recognize them doesn’t necessarily mean they’re putting out a quality(albeit inexpensive) product. I also wouldn’t know where to buy except Amazon and Guitar Center.
Can anyone offer this newbie some suggestions as to a good brand for the price? Besides the places I mentioned, any other retailers? What about size? Should I go with a soprano or concert? Finally, where to go for lessons? Would a guitar teacher be able to teach ukulele? Thanks for any input and direction.
Tor
December 13th, 2010 3:29 pm
clint: My 2 cents, as a fresh ukulele player (but longtime guitar player):
1) Get a soprano. It’s big enough for a 5-year.
2) Don’t buy an expensive instrument, however one problem with cheap ones is that they may not be set up well. For example, the nut grooves may not cut deep enough, so that it’s hard to press the strings. That’ll be tough for a 5-year’s fingers. Likewise, the action may be too high (the overall string hight). So it’s better if you can try out instruments in a shop, instead of buying online. A shop may even be able to help with filing down the nut, if necessary. (Even if you don’t play a stringed instrument yourself you’ll probably be able to feel the difference in string pressure while trying out instruments. Try pressing the strings at the first fret, for example.)
3) Better strings may make a cheap instrument sound better but may also be easier to play. Some of the black nylon strings on cheap instruments are quite hard.
As for teachers.. I’m way out of my league here because I’m such a newbie at ukulele myself, but as a long-time guitar player I would say “yes”, if you don’t find a teacher for ukulele a guitar teacher should be able to teach ukulele, to some extent (he or she would have to take a quick look at some instructional material though, well, even youtube would do). An ukulele is tuned exactly as a guitar with a capo at the 5th fret if you look at the first four strings only, except that the fourth string (the G) of the ukulele is tuned one octave up. In other words, a guitar player can get a feel for it by capoing the 5th fret and stick to the four first strings.
I bought a resonator by Marshall Stapleton it is a one off handmade work of art. It is a concert and it is made from douglas fir. Actually I’m told it is made from a recycled church pew. I call it “Voice of an Angel’, and the sound is just so beautiful.
Do you know of any other people using recycled materials for the construction of ukes?
Thanks for a great website
John P
February 11th, 2011 11:18 pm
Having done much research, this is what I’ve learned:
So many questions. So many options. So many choices. I’ll make it easy… especially if you are just starting on the instrument.
Get a soprano/standard first. Spend $50-$70. Lanakai LU21 or equivalent is perfect to start. If you advance in skill or find that you like the instrument as much as I did, get a tenor made with solid koa. $350-$450 and you should be set for life. aNueNue Oahu (solid) Koa III is a lifetime investment at $350! Higher prices only improve aesthetics or appearance or afford you a prestigious name.
Keep in mind that some professionals or masters play on a $100 uke!
Tone woods: I’ve seen and played them all:
Nato: louder, more resonant … good for beginner
Mahogany: more like a guitar’s sound
Mango: muted; less projection, but beautiful in appearance. Great if u play publically or in a group.
Koa: distinct, highest quality sound. Most authentic to “Hawaiian” sound.
Solid is always better if you can afford it… or FIND it for that matter!
Remember… you don’t need a uke crusted in diamonds, but you don’t want one that should come in a Happy Meal from McDonald’s either. Get a decent uke. Your sound will be fine. The rest is in your hands… literally.
rachel :D
February 27th, 2011 11:37 pm
RIGHT, Here’s the thing:
I wouldn’t say I’m a complete beginner, but on this website I’e gotten up to tabs and fingerpicking and thats going good and I really enjoy that bit
So I want to buy a new ukulele, this one, in my opinion looks a bit cheap (but pretty cause I painted it xD) and I want a better quality one…
a lot of you fine people are suggesting the Lanikai LU-21 isn’t it?
Is that a soprano or concert..? Which one should I get? Thank you
I’ve been a musician (guitarist,singer,songwriter)both fronting a band and playing solo for many years (almost 40 at this point!). My daughter gave me a Lanikai Concert Uke for Christmas and I am smitten. Haven’t hardly ever had this much fun with an instrument. I decided to upgrade to a tenor and want an acoustic electric so I can play it when I’m with my band. I ordered an Oscar Schmidt Spalted Mango Acoustic Electric and when it arrived the electronics were not set in the body correctly, the screws had broken the wood and the finish. I called the company where I purchased it and they sent me another. That one had buzzing strings, which I was able to massage a little and the buzzing stopped, but compared to the first one (which had fantastic tone despite the manufacturing defect) it was a little flat sounding, especially the highest string. I don’t like the way Oscar Schmidt takes an acoustic and sticks the electronics on as an afterthought – I believe the integrity of the instrument is compromised by that approach, and the screws are too long and inside you can see that eventually the wood might break. Sooo… I think I’ll get an acoustic and then have an after-market pickup installed. My question is, how can I make sure I get a great instrument (resonant, etc.) buying online? There’s no brick and mortar store in my area where I can go and try 5 of the same Uke to find the best one. Will any on-line store open the box, make sure its set up and sounds good before shipping? Also, if I plan to spend under $300, is there a brand that I might like better than the Oscar Schmidt? I want a tenor (and I love the look and sound of the spalted mango). Any advice?? Thanks!
Hi,I’m new to Ukes.The Easter Rabbit gave me a Soprano Uke a few days ago. He bought it off eBay expecting mahogany and took it to a local music shop to check it out because it arrived looking a bit manky. They told him it was an amazing hand-made Uke, probably about 12years old, worth hundreds and they can’t get enough of them.
Another music shop has said that they would have trouble selling it because it has a lump of wood inside at the base of the neck which would impair the sound and could be a repair job. They thought it was probably cherry and we could pick up a new hand-made one like it for £75 ($120).
I’m left wondering if my husband (Easter Rabbit) should return it as it might end up being frustrating to learn on (I notice that it doesn’t have geared machine heads – should a uke?)and we start again or is it a good one.
Thanks for reading this and what do you think?
Paulie
April 29th, 2011 3:48 pm
I just received an Oscar Schmidt I purchased new. Other than a problem with the strings continuing to stretch out of tune, I love it. I am hoping the strings will stabilize pretty soon, but as a guitar player who plays steel strings I am wondering if these nylons will ever stop stretching. This is my first uke experience (my son is marrying a Hawaiian girl and they want me to sing a Hawaiian song at the wedding). I wish I had picked one up years ago. I find it much easier to sing with for some reason than my guitars. Can’t wait to get to the beach. If you see a chubby guy under a palm tree in Daytona playing a ukelele with a goofy grin on his face—that’d be me.
Lee
May 8th, 2011 9:45 pm
I am a complete beginner. My dad played uke during my childhood. I love the sound. I am learning all i can before buying my first uke for myself.
What do you think about the “Flea” concert size?
luk
May 16th, 2011 5:26 am
lanikai Lu-21C Concert or Kala Ka-C ??
what´s the difference? which should i buy?
Eduardo
May 18th, 2011 12:54 am
I am purchasing a sonny d, and im really excited about it. I met the man today and he was so nice, I considered buying a kamaka here in hawaii, but when i stumbled upon sonny d’s shop today (I am a first year teacher at Waipahu high) and talked to him and checked out his workspace I realized I had to buy it from Sonny D. He encompasses the aloha that these instruments should carry. I think he picked up on my enthusiasm and respect for his dedication and he is making me a deal on a dark koa tenor uke that could easily sell for 1200.00.
Im stoked. I think sonny D is the true hawaiian undergroung uke maker.
Dani
August 16th, 2011 7:06 pm
I have a few friends who play ukulele, and it seems like a fun instrument, so for my birthday I am getting myself one. I’m only 12, so my father said that if I could teach myself in the beginning and stick with the instrument he’ll get me some lessons. I’ve been doing some research the past few days and found out that the guitar center literally 30 seconds from my house sells the Lanikai LU-21, which is what I plan on buying. It comes with Aquila strings, which is awesome, but here are my two questions:
1. How can I test the uke in the store if I have no experience with string instruments at all? Like I said, I’m 12, so I don’t have the cash to buy many ukes until I find the right one. I need to get a good beginner one and prove to my dad that I can play it.
2. What accessories will I need for my uke? I honestly have no idea.
Michael
August 25th, 2011 11:02 pm
I have a Kala KA-S that I got over a year ago and have been happy with it. Lately I have been wanting to add another uke. I have been thinking about a concert with the electronic addition. I was checking out a Luna in a music store for 150. And was wondering/hoping you had some suggestions.
Also, since I have been out shopping and listening to other instruments I have to say that I appreciate my Kala even more. Listening to other instruments they don’t all have the same tone. The ukes I was looking at today for instance did not seem to resonate as well as my Kala, but they felt solid. Some may have been solid woods. Am I just used to my Kala, nuts, or a little of both?
Kelli
September 2nd, 2011 8:06 pm
Anyone have anything to say about Blue Maui ukuleles? I played a koa tenor last night and fell in love. I’m thinking about buying it or a sweet Koaloha concert that’s on sale. So hard to choose!
Tony the Tiger
September 27th, 2011 8:52 pm
Hi all
I’ve been playing guitars around 30 years and last year bought a cheap Tanglewood uke to learn on and just cannot put it down. Recently tried an Ashbury Tenor AU 34T solid boa in a shop in Leeds and I am thinking of buying it, looks, feels and sounds great to me but would appreciate any comments good or bad to help me make the right decision.
cheers
tony
TheViolentVicar
October 2nd, 2011 5:50 pm
It’s hard to go wrong with a Flea or a Fluke. They’re well-made, have a nice tone, and are relatively inexpensive and tough. Add to that a funky cachet that makes ready used market, allowing you to dump it if you discover that the instrument is not for you, and you have a winner.
I have three ukes: a Flea, an Applause, and a Recording King resonator. I like the RC the most (that Knopfleresque ring makes me grin) but play the Flea more. It’s lighter and I an not so ascairt of marring its plastic body. The Applause is a nightmare: quiet, dull tone, and with a curious combination of a narrow neck and big wide head that makes it difficult to navigate the fretboard in 1st position.
Olivia
October 5th, 2011 8:27 pm
Hi, I’m looking to buy my first ukulele. I would like to spend around £30 ($45) on it. I have played the flute for eight years and the piano for two, so I do have some musical experience. Would anyone be able to recommend a ukulele that would be suitable for a beginner, would be just about the best I can get for £30, and is stocked by someone willing to ship to the UK? Thank you!
Tracy Woodard
October 11th, 2011 12:51 am
Dani, Welcome to Ukulele. I hope that you are still checking for responses to your question. I am self taught and am playing on rather inexpensive ukes and having fun. As far as testing a new Uke in a store, first teach yourself 3 basic chords: C F & G7. These three chords are VERY easy to learn and with them you can play dozens if not hundreds of songs.
so my advice is to learn these 3 chords and then learn a few songs so that you can play that song with each of the ukes that you consider buying.
As long as the action or playability of the uke fits you well and the tone of the instrument is pleasing to YOUR ear, then buy it.
Hope this helps
Tracy
Trent Roberts
October 12th, 2011 3:45 am
Hey guys, i have been playing guitar for about 15 years and am seriously considering a ukulele. I am a large bloke with fairly big fingers, just seeing if anyone has any ideas on what type would suit best. Thanks heaps
Joe E
October 19th, 2011 7:42 am
I had an intro uke lesson in mid-August. I held out a little more than a week before buying my own ukulele. I got a Lanikai concert based on the good rep of Lanikais online and the slightly larger size for my fat fingers. And I love it!
About a month later I bought my second uke, a Luna soprano (tattoo). Found a shop online that does expert setup on each uke. Due to the set-up and the pineapple shape, it’s very resonant for its size. I practice with them both though my friend who’s lagging behind me in practice and skill prefers the larger concert.
Someone recently said that tenor is the most popular size for guys — overall bigger. Baritones are tuned somewhat like guitars, so consider one if you already play guitar. Sopranos, concert/altos, and tenors are all tuned alike for ease of changing instruments.
I guess what I’m saying is: read a LOT online, consider a Lanikai, and practice, practice, practice. And this site helped me a lot in getting started.
Clyde Seltzer
October 26th, 2011 9:29 pm
I have my Father’s Martin Ukulele that he purchased in 1928.
My Brother Gene, out of the kindness of his heart had the Body replaced by Martin in 1988 due to some minor fractures in it. Gene, not a player…I am. We both regreted it in retrospect.
In reading Alistairs “Ukelele for Dummies”, Recognising Ukulele brands the Martin Ukulele 5K was mentioned, and I wondered how to identify the 5K from others, namely mine. Thank you, Clyde
Teddy
November 12th, 2011 10:05 pm
I’ve been playing for about six months now, so I’m not what you’d call a long term player, but I would highly recommend for beginners the Makala Dolphin. It’s made from mostly plastic and laminates, but don’t let that fool you, combined with Aquilla strings you can get a good sound out of it. I’m not saying it’s up there with the Flukes and Fleas, but it’s generally recognised as the best in the £20-£30 range (my soprano cost £23), and can even hold its own against some of the £40-£50 range.
They come in a variety of colours (lets face it, that’s what really matters to a beginner, I know it mattered to me, yellow for the win), although god help anyone trying to find a red starburst paintjob, have a wooden dolphin built into the bridge, and what looks like mahogany on the fretboard, although I can’t claim any kind of actual knowledge for that, just a guess. It also has geared tuners, the kind used on most guitars for those who don’t know, but don’t suffer from the Mickey Mouse ears look that a lot of geared tuner ukes do, and they are unlikely to slip, or go to far out of tune, providing you check it regularly. However, you may have trouble finding them in stores, as from what I can tell, Kala (the company that makes them) deal mostly online, but it is an excellent beginner uke.
I’ve also been resonably impressed with the Union Series by Tanglewood, which costs around £19, and is more likely to be found in an actual store, but I still prefer the Dolphin in general. It’s an entirely laminate body, but still gives a pretty good volume considering, and can be quite loud given Aquillas, but sometimes has a slight slant on the bridge, with one end higher than the other, which can affect playing, but you can fix that with a bit of precision filing. The fretboard’s plastic, but not bad despite that, and has geared tuners like the Dolphin, but doesn’t suffer from the Mickey Mouse problem either. The main flaw however, is the way the strings are attatched at the body, with a normal knot stuck through a plastic slot, which slipped a few times while I was re-stringing, forcing me to start all over again, but other than that, not a bad beginner uke, although I’d spend a few extra pounds and just buy a Dolphin for the reliability.
If there’s one thing I recommend you not to buy, it’s a Mahalo. They’re representative of pretty much everything I despise about the music industry, nay, all industries; large companies flooding the market with cheap, shiny, and above all, inferior instruments that attract beginners, who are then discouraged when through no fault of their own they can’t get a decent sound out of them. You might get a decent one every few thousand produced, but that’s more by luck than design, and even if you disagree about the sound, they did create the flying-V model, which while a thing of beauty for a guitar, is quite simply a crime against Ukulele. Give them a wide berth is my only advice.
For more info, there’s a blog you can visit called “Got a Ukulele”, which was a big help to me when I was trying to pick my first Uke.>
Tom Keenan
January 15th, 2012 4:45 pm
Thanks for all of the great tips and advice. I bought myself a Lanikai LKP-C. It’s a really nice Koa uke strung with the Aquila Nylagut. I’m having so much fun with the instrument. Having many years of guitar behind me, I managed to hit the ground running. I’ve also started teaching my daughter who’s finding it much easier than guitar and getting her re-interested in learning an instrument.
30 Comments
Buying a ukulele is not on the same level as buying a car, but there are some practices one should utilize before making a purchase. In this Internet age, the ability to select from about as wide a range as one could imagine is both a boon and a bane. Given that, here are a few pre-purchasing tips.
1) Determine your skill level. Are you new to playing the ukulele? Are you new to music in general? If you are new to music, then you are not going to want to spend a fortune for an instrument that you may not even be able to play. If you have some musical background, then you can opt for a more expensive model, but again you should not go whole hog on the purchase. Remember, you can always upgrade to a higher quality instrument (hence, more expensive) once you are past the initial playing phases.
2) Gauge your overall interest level. Are you a hobbyist or are you a fanatic? Sometimes the interest starts out as casual, but the tendency to fall in love with this instrument is strong. However, you should weigh exactly how much time you’ll be able to spend playing and practicing. Decide whether you are willing to dedicate a couple of hours a week or a couple of hours a day to this pursuit. Finally, seriously assess if you are the type of person easily frustrated by lack of immediate progress. Even if you are a skilled musician, there will be a learning curve.
3) Go out and actually find a ukulele you can test. Find some good instrument/music shops that carry not only ukuleles, but a variety of them. This includes not only different makes (e.g. Oscar Schmidt, Lanikai, Makala, Martin, Cordoba, etc.), but different types as well (e.g. soprano, concert, tenor, and baritone). Get your hands on one to feel what it is like to play the instrument. Learn to differentiate between the different fit and finishes available. Moreover, discover the different sounds each brand and type can produce. Not all ukes sound or even look the same (wait ’til you see your first pineapple body ukulele).
4) Talk to ukulele players. More important, find a uke group in your area. These people can tell you things about ukuleles that are near impossible to quantify. Interaction with casual hobbyists to serious musicians (professionals) will give you the opportunity to study the instrument from different perspectives. You might also get to handle some ukulele models you’d otherwise miss or only read about. Furthermore, you will already have a base of support and playing partners if you do decide to get a ukulele.
5) Do research on the Internet. Like almost all topics on the found on the Web, there is both good and bad. Spend time reading and researching. This will help with the first three items. You can find the debates between people regarding makes and models, and there are many. There are numerous sites dedicated to ukulele playing, so get out there and dig around. The more time you spend educating yourself about the instrument, the better the decision you can make.
6) Don’t rush. Avoid the temptation of “instant gratification.” It doesn’t matter whether you are going spend $80 or $800 on your instrument; you want to get the best quality instrument for the money you are willing to spend. Hence, any research you do up to the purchase point will aid you in reaching this objective. Take your time and you will be happier over time with your final choice. They say time is money, and it is true in this case as well. Wisely spend your time, and you will wisely spend your money. Above all, you do want to be happy with your final decision, regardless of what you choose.
7) Make a purchase decision and then… wait. Yes, wait. Give it another week or two or three. Review the deciding factors one last time. Be certain you are comfortable with the amount you are willing to pay and any accompanying trade offs. Make certain you understand the make and model of the ukulele to be obtained. Re-read the last two lines of point number 6.
People will hit you will all sorts of arguments regarding this ukulele or that for both make and model. Listen to them. Judge their level of passion and seeming knowledge. Weigh one opinion against another. Some purists will howl than anything other than uke made in Hawai’i is a waste of money. In the same vein, anyone who recommends anything simply because “it’s cute” should be discounted. Eschew extreme positions. When all is said and done, you will be the one who decides and you will have to live with your choice.
In the words of a heavily copyrighted movie by one of the top directors, “Choose wisely.”
(My first ukulele was a Lanikai LU-21C, a concert uke. I love it even after hundreds of hours of playing it. It’s a solid, good sounding, relatively inexpensive beginner uke that holds up well over time.)
Thanks very much for that, Dag. Some very useful pointers.
My question to you, Dag is this. I have written two children’s albums using my ukes and when I went to buy a tenor, the biggest dilemma I had was what kind of strings work better. I have have all sizes but I find that I prefer to have steel string some where in my tenor setup. what is your opinion on this and can you give me some advice on strings in general. I am at the stage where I am contemplating spending a couple of thousand on a good performance uke. Thanks Jay
Jayster… strings are all about how the tone is embodied as it comes out of the f-hole (after bouncing around inside the body). Here are a couple of things to consider first when deciding on strings:
1) What type of wood (or woods or laminate) is used to create the front, sides, and back. Dense woods like mahogany will bounce the sound back in a more true fashion. Softer woods like spruce will “mellow” out the sound. Nato wood tends to add a sharpness to the sound, but one that I kind of like. Laminates can produce uneven results depending on the composite woods used (and I have heard some sweet, sweet laminates). You also need to consider the joinery method used as this can affect the tone. If large nub strips are used to join sides to front and back, that can mute the sound (and tone), or create uneven reverberation. Thus, you have to know the original tone of the uke.
2) Three basic choices: gut, nylon, or steel. It all depends on the effect you wish to achieve. Secondly, sustain is going to be affected by the type of string you use. Steel has the longest sustain with gut coming in third. The tone produced also varies widely, of which you seem well aware. Since you seem to like steel strings, and you can get some great intonation out of steel, here is one aspect to seriously consider:
Steel strings have very little “give” until the snap. They don’t really stretch in the same manner as gut or nylon. It is easier to tune steel strings. Once you get in the range, it takes very little to hit the tune note. However, a string extruded imperfectly will never find true. The worrying aspect of steel strings lies in the fact they can warp the neck, regardless if the neck is reinforced.
Take into account the thickness of the C (3rd) string (if using the standard G-C-E-A tuning). That string can take an amazing amount of tension. Now, combine that tension with the other three strings, and I think you can see where this is heading. There is a lot of force built up between the nut and the saddle. Depending on the design and structure of the neck, it may not be able to take the tension. Caution is by the by-word.
On other item about using steel strings: examine the frets. Make certain they are made of a material than can withstand the use of steel. I think more uke manufacturers have gut or nylagut in mind when they select fret material. If they are brass frets, then the brass will etch and score after a while with steel strings. This can lead to fuzz or other distortions later in the life of the instrument.
I have a Fender Hau’Oli mahogany tenor. Not a very expensive model, but has a very interesting tone. It came with D’Adario strings with a nickel-wound 3rd string. Those strings sounded awful! I switched them out for some Aquila Nylagut strings, and then things got interesting. My tenor tends toward the treble end of tone, and I really like it. However, not every song takes that that sort of tone. I have tried gut strings on it, but the sound was muted… and Fender ukes tend to have a bit of muteness to begin with and the gut strings made it worse.
Since you are more than likely going after a quality instrument, the issue of price is not going to matter much, so comparable quality is the key point. If you go with steel, my instincts advise that you stick with solid extruded steel strings. Avoid “wound” strings. I think the tone quality will be much better with solids. If you go with steel, take a week to properly “extend” the strings (versus stretching them). Tighten them up little by live over the course of a day. Once you hit tune, play the strings until they go out of tune. Then, tune again and let them sit over night. Due this for about 7 days or so, and your strings will be tempered. This will preserve the sound quality in the long term and will help you avoid warping the neck.
If you want a more mellow sound, go with nylagut or gut. I highly recommend Aquila strings. You get excellent quality at a decent price. Aquila gut will run you about $10 – $12 per pack. Aquila Nylagut comes in around $5.00, give or take a dollar depending on source.
I hope this helps
- Dag
Hey – I just bought a new Uke in Japan. It’s called a Hanalei. I know it’s not a great one as it cost 4900円 ($50) but I can’t find much info about them. Not even in the exhaustive list on ukulele brands which seems to include everything from terrible to fantastic. Can you let me know if you heard of them and how you rate them. If I get better I will treat myself to a better one – so whats next?
I love the site by the way.
Bobb
I recently purchased a Lauren SU14 Soprano Ukulele from a local Music store, and had never until then heard of the brand name. It has geared tuning pegs, and there is an oily smell emanating from the soundhole, but interestingly, I have only had to tune it one time since I bought it.
My decision to buy it, came after I had ordered a Mahalo Uke online, and was told it was on backorder, I had also heard some scare stories about the Mahalo brand, and so, I cancelled the order, and bought the Lauren Uke a day later. I am very happy with it, and I now have a Gig bag on order for it through the music store where I bought the Uke.
Hi i am new to the ukelele and would like to buy a solid wood one .within a mid range price up to $450. So far between string types ,sizes and woods i am overwhelmed with all thats available.There are three brands so far that i am interested in but have no experience to know what is a good brand ,tone etc for my money . The pono tenor solid mahogany satin finish , the Kala tenor solid acacia ,and most of all confusion the aNuenue lani or papa ? I did get to play a aNuenue long neck solid koa soprano which sounded nice but the shop had nothing to compare it to.could someone please give me some advice on soprano’s and tenor’s (although i do know the tenor is larger)but thats about all.thankyou for your time …
I would welcome any opinions-from the beginner to the seasoned expert. Upon the recommendation of a musician friend, I’m seriously considering starting my 5 year old daughter with a ukulele. She’s expressed an interest in music and I wanted to start her on an instrument that would not frustrate her into quitting after a week. I thought about a 1/2 size guitar, but the friend said a uke would probably pose less frustrating and more gratifying and rewarding and thus keep her enjoying music.
Given that she’s 5, I don’t want to start with some thousand dollar instrument that’s going to give me palpitations should she start swinging it around. I’m looking at the $50 range, but also want as good a $50 uke as you can get. I know nothing about brands, but did recognize Ibanez and Hohner. However, just because I recognize them doesn’t necessarily mean they’re putting out a quality(albeit inexpensive) product. I also wouldn’t know where to buy except Amazon and Guitar Center.
Can anyone offer this newbie some suggestions as to a good brand for the price? Besides the places I mentioned, any other retailers? What about size? Should I go with a soprano or concert? Finally, where to go for lessons? Would a guitar teacher be able to teach ukulele? Thanks for any input and direction.
clint: My 2 cents, as a fresh ukulele player (but longtime guitar player):
1) Get a soprano. It’s big enough for a 5-year.
2) Don’t buy an expensive instrument, however one problem with cheap ones is that they may not be set up well. For example, the nut grooves may not cut deep enough, so that it’s hard to press the strings. That’ll be tough for a 5-year’s fingers. Likewise, the action may be too high (the overall string hight). So it’s better if you can try out instruments in a shop, instead of buying online. A shop may even be able to help with filing down the nut, if necessary. (Even if you don’t play a stringed instrument yourself you’ll probably be able to feel the difference in string pressure while trying out instruments. Try pressing the strings at the first fret, for example.)
3) Better strings may make a cheap instrument sound better but may also be easier to play. Some of the black nylon strings on cheap instruments are quite hard.
As for teachers.. I’m way out of my league here because I’m such a newbie at ukulele myself, but as a long-time guitar player I would say “yes”, if you don’t find a teacher for ukulele a guitar teacher should be able to teach ukulele, to some extent (he or she would have to take a quick look at some instructional material though, well, even youtube would do). An ukulele is tuned exactly as a guitar with a capo at the 5th fret if you look at the first four strings only, except that the fourth string (the G) of the ukulele is tuned one octave up. In other words, a guitar player can get a feel for it by capoing the 5th fret and stick to the four first strings.
I bought a resonator by Marshall Stapleton it is a one off handmade work of art. It is a concert and it is made from douglas fir. Actually I’m told it is made from a recycled church pew. I call it “Voice of an Angel’, and the sound is just so beautiful.
Do you know of any other people using recycled materials for the construction of ukes?
Thanks for a great website
Having done much research, this is what I’ve learned:
So many questions. So many options. So many choices. I’ll make it easy… especially if you are just starting on the instrument.
Get a soprano/standard first. Spend $50-$70. Lanakai LU21 or equivalent is perfect to start. If you advance in skill or find that you like the instrument as much as I did, get a tenor made with solid koa. $350-$450 and you should be set for life. aNueNue Oahu (solid) Koa III is a lifetime investment at $350! Higher prices only improve aesthetics or appearance or afford you a prestigious name.
Keep in mind that some professionals or masters play on a $100 uke!
Tone woods: I’ve seen and played them all:
Nato: louder, more resonant … good for beginner
Mahogany: more like a guitar’s sound
Mango: muted; less projection, but beautiful in appearance. Great if u play publically or in a group.
Koa: distinct, highest quality sound. Most authentic to “Hawaiian” sound.
Solid is always better if you can afford it… or FIND it for that matter!
Remember… you don’t need a uke crusted in diamonds, but you don’t want one that should come in a Happy Meal from McDonald’s either. Get a decent uke. Your sound will be fine. The rest is in your hands… literally.
RIGHT, Here’s the thing:
I wouldn’t say I’m a complete beginner, but on this website I’e gotten up to tabs and fingerpicking and thats going good and I really enjoy that bit
So I want to buy a new ukulele, this one, in my opinion looks a bit cheap (but pretty cause I painted it xD) and I want a better quality one…
a lot of you fine people are suggesting the Lanikai LU-21 isn’t it?
Is that a soprano or concert..? Which one should I get? Thank you
I’ve been a musician (guitarist,singer,songwriter)both fronting a band and playing solo for many years (almost 40 at this point!). My daughter gave me a Lanikai Concert Uke for Christmas and I am smitten. Haven’t hardly ever had this much fun with an instrument. I decided to upgrade to a tenor and want an acoustic electric so I can play it when I’m with my band. I ordered an Oscar Schmidt Spalted Mango Acoustic Electric and when it arrived the electronics were not set in the body correctly, the screws had broken the wood and the finish. I called the company where I purchased it and they sent me another. That one had buzzing strings, which I was able to massage a little and the buzzing stopped, but compared to the first one (which had fantastic tone despite the manufacturing defect) it was a little flat sounding, especially the highest string. I don’t like the way Oscar Schmidt takes an acoustic and sticks the electronics on as an afterthought – I believe the integrity of the instrument is compromised by that approach, and the screws are too long and inside you can see that eventually the wood might break. Sooo… I think I’ll get an acoustic and then have an after-market pickup installed. My question is, how can I make sure I get a great instrument (resonant, etc.) buying online? There’s no brick and mortar store in my area where I can go and try 5 of the same Uke to find the best one. Will any on-line store open the box, make sure its set up and sounds good before shipping? Also, if I plan to spend under $300, is there a brand that I might like better than the Oscar Schmidt? I want a tenor (and I love the look and sound of the spalted mango). Any advice?? Thanks!
Hi,I’m new to Ukes.The Easter Rabbit gave me a Soprano Uke a few days ago. He bought it off eBay expecting mahogany and took it to a local music shop to check it out because it arrived looking a bit manky. They told him it was an amazing hand-made Uke, probably about 12years old, worth hundreds and they can’t get enough of them.
Another music shop has said that they would have trouble selling it because it has a lump of wood inside at the base of the neck which would impair the sound and could be a repair job. They thought it was probably cherry and we could pick up a new hand-made one like it for £75 ($120).
I’m left wondering if my husband (Easter Rabbit) should return it as it might end up being frustrating to learn on (I notice that it doesn’t have geared machine heads – should a uke?)and we start again or is it a good one.
Thanks for reading this and what do you think?
I just received an Oscar Schmidt I purchased new. Other than a problem with the strings continuing to stretch out of tune, I love it. I am hoping the strings will stabilize pretty soon, but as a guitar player who plays steel strings I am wondering if these nylons will ever stop stretching. This is my first uke experience (my son is marrying a Hawaiian girl and they want me to sing a Hawaiian song at the wedding). I wish I had picked one up years ago. I find it much easier to sing with for some reason than my guitars. Can’t wait to get to the beach. If you see a chubby guy under a palm tree in Daytona playing a ukelele with a goofy grin on his face—that’d be me.
I am a complete beginner. My dad played uke during my childhood. I love the sound. I am learning all i can before buying my first uke for myself.
What do you think about the “Flea” concert size?
lanikai Lu-21C Concert or Kala Ka-C ??
what´s the difference? which should i buy?
I am purchasing a sonny d, and im really excited about it. I met the man today and he was so nice, I considered buying a kamaka here in hawaii, but when i stumbled upon sonny d’s shop today (I am a first year teacher at Waipahu high) and talked to him and checked out his workspace I realized I had to buy it from Sonny D. He encompasses the aloha that these instruments should carry. I think he picked up on my enthusiasm and respect for his dedication and he is making me a deal on a dark koa tenor uke that could easily sell for 1200.00.
Im stoked. I think sonny D is the true hawaiian undergroung uke maker.
I have a few friends who play ukulele, and it seems like a fun instrument, so for my birthday I am getting myself one. I’m only 12, so my father said that if I could teach myself in the beginning and stick with the instrument he’ll get me some lessons. I’ve been doing some research the past few days and found out that the guitar center literally 30 seconds from my house sells the Lanikai LU-21, which is what I plan on buying. It comes with Aquila strings, which is awesome, but here are my two questions:
1. How can I test the uke in the store if I have no experience with string instruments at all? Like I said, I’m 12, so I don’t have the cash to buy many ukes until I find the right one. I need to get a good beginner one and prove to my dad that I can play it.
2. What accessories will I need for my uke? I honestly have no idea.
I have a Kala KA-S that I got over a year ago and have been happy with it. Lately I have been wanting to add another uke. I have been thinking about a concert with the electronic addition. I was checking out a Luna in a music store for 150. And was wondering/hoping you had some suggestions.
Also, since I have been out shopping and listening to other instruments I have to say that I appreciate my Kala even more. Listening to other instruments they don’t all have the same tone. The ukes I was looking at today for instance did not seem to resonate as well as my Kala, but they felt solid. Some may have been solid woods. Am I just used to my Kala, nuts, or a little of both?
Anyone have anything to say about Blue Maui ukuleles? I played a koa tenor last night and fell in love. I’m thinking about buying it or a sweet Koaloha concert that’s on sale. So hard to choose!
Hi all
I’ve been playing guitars around 30 years and last year bought a cheap Tanglewood uke to learn on and just cannot put it down. Recently tried an Ashbury Tenor AU 34T solid boa in a shop in Leeds and I am thinking of buying it, looks, feels and sounds great to me but would appreciate any comments good or bad to help me make the right decision.
cheers
tony
It’s hard to go wrong with a Flea or a Fluke. They’re well-made, have a nice tone, and are relatively inexpensive and tough. Add to that a funky cachet that makes ready used market, allowing you to dump it if you discover that the instrument is not for you, and you have a winner.
I have three ukes: a Flea, an Applause, and a Recording King resonator. I like the RC the most (that Knopfleresque ring makes me grin) but play the Flea more. It’s lighter and I an not so ascairt of marring its plastic body. The Applause is a nightmare: quiet, dull tone, and with a curious combination of a narrow neck and big wide head that makes it difficult to navigate the fretboard in 1st position.
Hi, I’m looking to buy my first ukulele. I would like to spend around £30 ($45) on it. I have played the flute for eight years and the piano for two, so I do have some musical experience. Would anyone be able to recommend a ukulele that would be suitable for a beginner, would be just about the best I can get for £30, and is stocked by someone willing to ship to the UK? Thank you!
Dani, Welcome to Ukulele. I hope that you are still checking for responses to your question. I am self taught and am playing on rather inexpensive ukes and having fun. As far as testing a new Uke in a store, first teach yourself 3 basic chords: C F & G7. These three chords are VERY easy to learn and with them you can play dozens if not hundreds of songs.
so my advice is to learn these 3 chords and then learn a few songs so that you can play that song with each of the ukes that you consider buying.
As long as the action or playability of the uke fits you well and the tone of the instrument is pleasing to YOUR ear, then buy it.
Hope this helps
Tracy
Hey guys, i have been playing guitar for about 15 years and am seriously considering a ukulele. I am a large bloke with fairly big fingers, just seeing if anyone has any ideas on what type would suit best. Thanks heaps
I had an intro uke lesson in mid-August. I held out a little more than a week before buying my own ukulele. I got a Lanikai concert based on the good rep of Lanikais online and the slightly larger size for my fat fingers. And I love it!
About a month later I bought my second uke, a Luna soprano (tattoo). Found a shop online that does expert setup on each uke. Due to the set-up and the pineapple shape, it’s very resonant for its size. I practice with them both though my friend who’s lagging behind me in practice and skill prefers the larger concert.
Someone recently said that tenor is the most popular size for guys — overall bigger. Baritones are tuned somewhat like guitars, so consider one if you already play guitar. Sopranos, concert/altos, and tenors are all tuned alike for ease of changing instruments.
I guess what I’m saying is: read a LOT online, consider a Lanikai, and practice, practice, practice. And this site helped me a lot in getting started.
I have my Father’s Martin Ukulele that he purchased in 1928.
My Brother Gene, out of the kindness of his heart had the Body replaced by Martin in 1988 due to some minor fractures in it. Gene, not a player…I am. We both regreted it in retrospect.
In reading Alistairs “Ukelele for Dummies”, Recognising Ukulele brands the Martin Ukulele 5K was mentioned, and I wondered how to identify the 5K from others, namely mine. Thank you, Clyde
I’ve been playing for about six months now, so I’m not what you’d call a long term player, but I would highly recommend for beginners the Makala Dolphin. It’s made from mostly plastic and laminates, but don’t let that fool you, combined with Aquilla strings you can get a good sound out of it. I’m not saying it’s up there with the Flukes and Fleas, but it’s generally recognised as the best in the £20-£30 range (my soprano cost £23), and can even hold its own against some of the £40-£50 range.
They come in a variety of colours (lets face it, that’s what really matters to a beginner, I know it mattered to me, yellow for the win), although god help anyone trying to find a red starburst paintjob, have a wooden dolphin built into the bridge, and what looks like mahogany on the fretboard, although I can’t claim any kind of actual knowledge for that, just a guess. It also has geared tuners, the kind used on most guitars for those who don’t know, but don’t suffer from the Mickey Mouse ears look that a lot of geared tuner ukes do, and they are unlikely to slip, or go to far out of tune, providing you check it regularly. However, you may have trouble finding them in stores, as from what I can tell, Kala (the company that makes them) deal mostly online, but it is an excellent beginner uke.
I’ve also been resonably impressed with the Union Series by Tanglewood, which costs around £19, and is more likely to be found in an actual store, but I still prefer the Dolphin in general. It’s an entirely laminate body, but still gives a pretty good volume considering, and can be quite loud given Aquillas, but sometimes has a slight slant on the bridge, with one end higher than the other, which can affect playing, but you can fix that with a bit of precision filing. The fretboard’s plastic, but not bad despite that, and has geared tuners like the Dolphin, but doesn’t suffer from the Mickey Mouse problem either. The main flaw however, is the way the strings are attatched at the body, with a normal knot stuck through a plastic slot, which slipped a few times while I was re-stringing, forcing me to start all over again, but other than that, not a bad beginner uke, although I’d spend a few extra pounds and just buy a Dolphin for the reliability.
If there’s one thing I recommend you not to buy, it’s a Mahalo. They’re representative of pretty much everything I despise about the music industry, nay, all industries; large companies flooding the market with cheap, shiny, and above all, inferior instruments that attract beginners, who are then discouraged when through no fault of their own they can’t get a decent sound out of them. You might get a decent one every few thousand produced, but that’s more by luck than design, and even if you disagree about the sound, they did create the flying-V model, which while a thing of beauty for a guitar, is quite simply a crime against Ukulele. Give them a wide berth is my only advice.
For more info, there’s a blog you can visit called “Got a Ukulele”, which was a big help to me when I was trying to pick my first Uke.>
Thanks for all of the great tips and advice. I bought myself a Lanikai LKP-C. It’s a really nice Koa uke strung with the Aquila Nylagut. I’m having so much fun with the instrument. Having many years of guitar behind me, I managed to hit the ground running. I’ve also started teaching my daughter who’s finding it much easier than guitar and getting her re-interested in learning an instrument.
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